3. Circular fashion#
The focus of this research has been on creating modular elements, structures and connections that allow the user to change the shape of a garment, resize it or replace certain elements.
Inspirations#
Marchesa, Fall 2016 | 70’s patterns | Marchesa watercolor tulle dress
Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo 1968-1972 | Elie Sab Spring 2011 | Sandro Botticelli, Primavera, 1478-1482
More about Giorgio di Sant’Angelo dress
Assignment of the week#
The aim of this week was to create a garment of modular fashion. Trought the use of the lasercut and the construction of a module my idea was to recreate the thikness and lightness of a … pattern..
Modules from the archive of TextileLab Amsterdam
Cecilia helping me to figure out how fixing the module into the pattern | Our working messy table | Me getting crazy
Process#
The process to realize my modules could be divided in three macro aree.
- We started thinking and prototyping our module on paper(as you can see in the photo above).
- Then we has digitalized our sketches trought the use of a vector drawing programm.
- We used the laser cut to cut our modules on fabric.
You can see the entire process into the Process flow chart
When I first started to deisgn my module on the computer I was so sure about using Illustrator, but as soon as I started I decided to use Rhino.
I choose Rhino because is easier to rotate and move the objects whit any precision.
After designed the module I moved to Illustator to save and prepare the file for the lasercut.
Documentation#
Since Jessica and I had many fabric in common to cut, with decided to make a unique lasercut file with both our modules.
We also has some fun…
Modules rain (It has been very fun to throw my modules in the air…it was a little less fun having to collect them from the floor.)
Module#
Module N1
My first module cutted on paper and white fabric.
The interlock worked but I wasn’t satisfied with the appearance once they were locked together.
Module N2
Module N1 assembled | Modules assembled and left on the floor | Module N3 assembled
On Thursday I decided to change my module simplifing it.
Module N3
The chosen one#
The shape#
After the second failure I decided to move on a simpler form and I started thinking about what would have been the shape of the interlock. Here are shown some of the sketch I made before cutting.
The module system is composed by two parts: a male(in purple), whose shape is constructed on a square and reminds a flower and a female(in pink), whose shape is a circle. It is possible to encrise or decrese the size of the “petals” to create different fluffy effects.
The top#
I wanted my modules to be part of a garment as sleeves. After designed the modules I moved to designing the rest of the garment. Cecilia gave me a pattern from PatternLab(It’s a very handy website but you have to pay for download the pattern. You can download the pattern I used here).
The angle sleeve#
I wanted to shape my modules into sleevs for a dress. I assembled them into an “angel sleeve”.
I started form a top pattern with sleeves, I took the sleeve ride and I started working from that. I draw a new shape for the sleeve and than I started filling the sleeves’ shape with interlocked modules.
I created a sleeve ride that it’s sewed to the dress and on that piece the modules are interlocked.
The dress#
As for the sleeves also for the dress I took the sleeve ride and I draw the shape of my dress.
At the bottom of the dress I designed some cuts for interlocking some modules, as a big rouche.
I used a fabric with a percentage of synthetic so that I had to sew just the two halves of the dress and the hem. I sew the hem by hand and the rest with the overlocker machine. I was super excited to use it since I never had before!
The fabric#
To know how many modules I need for the two sleevs I calculated the required surface by moving the modules one next to the other.
In this picture is rappresented the surface for only one sleeve.
So you’ll need:#
- For the male module(in purple) you’ll need approximately 130x65 cm.
- For the female module(in green) you’ll need approximately 220x110 cm.
For two sleeves made ot my modules you’ll need approximately in total 350x175 cm of fabric.
I suggest to use a slightly thicker fabric for the male ad a soft and a lighter one for the female module.
Counting how many modules I needed for a sleeve and going crazy.
The lasercut#
I cutted my modules in Chiffon, Organza, UV shilding and Sintetic canvas coted in silver.
After a few test Jessica and I saw that 200 speed/30 power was good for evrything! We started from a lawer speed but it was too slow and it was taking too many time.
You can check the lasercut instruction in my week 2 assignment in the Laser cut instruction. From Slicer 360 to the laser cut.
It really takes looooot of time to cut all this modules but I really enjoy the result!
The result#
Fashion Digital Made#
The dress has join the contest “Fashion Digital Made” by Fondazione Mondo Digitale and has been presented during the runway organized with AltaRoma.
For the contest has been add to the outfit half of what should have become a bag of week Textile as scaffold as a pillbox hat.
Click here to see all the outfits of the contest.
About wero waste#
During this week we also have tought about Zero Waste garment design.
I must say my project it’s not zero waste at all. But i collected all the little pices that I didn’t need for this garment to embroidery them on another textile.
I found some interesting research that I would like to share with you! I hope you’ll enjoy!#
- Petitpli This’s a brand who has develop clothes for children from 4 months to 36 months, their fabric expands bi-directionally to accommodate up to 7 sizes.
- Ryan Mario Yasin He’s the developer of the brand Peritpli
Petit Pli - Clothes that grow with your child. from Ryan Mario Yasin on Vimeo.
- Dr Mark Liu He’s a fashion and textile designer focused on advancing fashion design through the application of scientific principles to traditional techniques.
- Drapemeasure: disruptive patternmaking tool using 3D mathematics
- x + y = fashion
- Non euclidean geometry in the modeling of contemporary architectural forms
- Sewing Dictionary ENGLISH – ITALIAN
Love, share, download the file here!#
Click here to download the file! or here and check all the other Open Source circular fashion projects!!
Click here for download the files for the dress, modular sleeves, simple top and sleeves.