3. Circular fashion

Cover3

Research

This week I started with the idea of imitating textures of the luxury industry like Hand-woven, animal skin textures or simple textures that give the idea of continuous surface and not too technological, to apply shoes from modules that allow modifying aesthetics and playing with the color, modularity or mood of footwear.

Animal print

Hand-woven

According to the complexity of the last, I consider it necessary to play with larger modules to cover the areas of greatest deformation in order to create a modular upper system that one side includes the modular surface and the other the anchor zones with the sole. I started analyzing with my tutor several previous exercises to understand the methodology to create a modules.

This is the link to my pinterest folder where you can check some more references: PinterestJF

Design and prototype with paper and scissors modular configurations and locking connections. Document the paper prototypes

I start looking how interluck works. Started by drawing some ideas and module possibilities. Inspired by one of the joining systems that I reviewed from the previous year, I identified the system that would allow me to join the modules lightly and safely.

I designed the module in Illustrator. It was not very easy to design such a geometric and precise module, so I decided to edit it in Rhino. Once I finished the module, the geometry did not coincide when joining it with another, so I decided with the support of my instructor, to redraw the module in Rhino from scratch again.

The first tests on paper I could not cut them with scissors because of the complexity of the module and size (2.5cm), so I cut them in laser. Laser machine setting: speed: 70, power: 15

The first problem is that when exporting the file it did not recognize the groups, so I tryed first to re-join them in Illustrator and exported again the file in format .dxf. The laser software Lasercuts 5.3.* still not recognizing, so then I united the pices again in the Laser´s software so to be able to organized the layers of cuting.

When doing the cutting test, we checked that it was not recognizing the format of the piece, so we also resized it in the Lasercuts 5.3 software.

The first exercises apparently work very well the module, I did tests in 2 dimensions to identify the most suitable for the shoe last. 25 mm and 35 mm.

I decided to work with the 25 mm module and at the suggestion of my instructor I extended the ends of the male to have a better grip.

last

I worked with 2 mm leather the first tests and the module works very well. The form that I wanted to express is lost a little by the union system so we explore other designs that might work. With the support of my instructor Anastasia, we work on creating another form of assembly so that the form I want is more defined, from a complete circle. I designed the new module directly in Rhino, cleaned the lines and made sure I had only one line.

Cut the first test with the same parameters above but certain areas were not short.

Additionally, it divided the file into 2 layers: those that are internal and the perimeter, however it did not cut well because it cut the perimeter first and the piece fell, without being able to cut the external pieces attached to the perimeter, so it divided the file into 3 layers, first cut the internal and the glue to the perimeter and finally the perimeter.

I assembled the new module, however I noticed that the skin is much thicker than the previous piece even though they are both of the same piece (I am working with Fendi leather scraps, so it is skin with irregularities in its thickness) .

Parameters

I made the new cut with: s70 / p30 I kept the file export problem, I had to edit the file again in Lasercut 5.3.

Process cut

The new module preserves the shape of the module clearer and is structured with a lot of fixation, however the piece is more rigid than the previous one due to the amount of assembly material, so I will try to remove as much material as possible from the assembly to achieve a fabric of greater flexibility, I will finally play with colors to create a more dynamic and harmonious surface.

To apply the new textile to footwear, I made the last pattern covering it with masquin tape. having the pattern allows me to define or structure the module for footwear.

Process3

Process and Final product

I start adding module after module. It was a task of many hours and many days, because of the meticulous process it was almost impossible to do it the same day as the hands ended up tired. I also received great help from other makers in the assembly process. Final Process 1 Final Process 2 Final Process 3

AltaRoma

"Digital Python" is more than a collection of shoes, it is a call to action for industries and citizens. A reinterpretation of exotic skins from digital manufacturing and seamless joinery of each piece done by hand.

It is a capsule collection that redefines luxury through the reuse of leather leftovers from the bespoke italian fashion industries. Creating in this way an stylized, provocative and sensual piece.Furthermore, for created the "digital python" shoe I mixed different techniques like computational couture, sustainabiity and handmade

Altaroma1 Altaroma2

I participated during the Alta Roma along with other Fabricademy alumni. This fashion event was organized by Mondo Digital as part of the Rome Fashion Week. For more click here