BioChromes#

October 10th, 2023

Cecilia Raspanti

The textile industry is one of the most polluting in the world, in which one the most environmentally disastrous processes is the dyeing of fibers and textiles of the clothes we wear. Chemicals are released daily in rivers and nature destroying the environment around us to satisfy the colour demands that we create as designers, industry and consumers. Very few options are being explored in this fast changing fashion, clothing and textile industry, and the list of chemical treatments is only expanding.

This class will focus on exploring colouring alternatives to the current ones. Bridging craftsmanship techniques and technology, to explore alternative colour sources and their processing. Ranging from plant based, insect base and bacteria based pigments.

Program outline#

Overview and context: BioChromes
Dyes: Natural & bacterial
Base materials, animal fibers and vegetable fibers
Mordants
Color modifiers
Dyes from roots, leaves, flowers - recipes
- madder
- campeche
- hibiscus
- turmeric
- alkanet
- et c
Dyes from pigmented bacteria
- overview
- inspirational projects
- recipes
- instruction videos
Inks: botanical
- Supports
- Mordants
- Color modifiers
- Stabilizers

Materials#

natural dyes:
- madder root
- alkanet roots
- turmeric roots powder
- hibiscus flowers
- onion peels
- campeche wood
- weld plant
- annatto seeds
- mordants/scouring agents:
  - alum & cream of tartar
  - copper liquor - copper pipes+vinegar or in crystals form
  - iron liquor - rusty irons+vinegar or in crystals form
  - Na2Co3 (sodium carbonate)
- ph modifiers
  - acids: vinegar, lemon
  - base: sodium carbonate
Bacterial dyes
janthinobacterium lividum
Serratia (bio safety lvl 2) - ONLY if you have a biolab environment and are prepared to use biosafety lvl 2 organisms
micrococcus luteus
LB Broth & Nutrient agar
animal fibers/textiles
wool, silk, camel hair, angora
vegetable fibers/textiles
cotton, linen, hemp, ramie *
Inks
arabic gum
salt
ethanol 96%
pipettes
natural dyes and bacteria